Day 7: Monday, September 11, 2006
Chippenham, England
Stonehenge, Salisbury, Bath and
Cardiff, Wales in One Day
We had lots
to do today so we got an early start. Ken went to fill up with
gas and get his morning coffee. Unfortunately he left the
coffee on the roof of the car and drove off. There was a nice
coffee-coloured trail down the back window. We again took the
back roads as we headed south. We passed several
thatched-roofed houses. These roads were fun to navigate as they
often became one-lane roads going through small villages and you
had to be aware of vehicles coming from the other direction. If
they were two-lane roads, often people would just park on the
street and there would now be only one lane again. |
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Thatched-roofed
houses in southwestern England |
Our trip took us
across the Salisbury Plain. Salisbury Plain is a 300 sq mi
(780 km2) chalk plateau in central southern England, part of the
Southern England Chalk Formation. Most of the Plain lies within
Wiltshire, with some in Berkshire. The Plain is famous for its rich
archaeology, including Stonehenge, one of England's best known
landmarks. The plain is sparsely populated and is the largest
remaining area of calcareous grassland in northwest Europe.
Additionally the plain has several military institutions, arable
land, and a few small areas of beech and coniferous woodland.
Salisbury Plain must be one of the few places in the world to warn
motorists of Army tanks crossing.
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Our first
stop was at Stonehenge. We parked the car, paid our
admission and also took the guided audio headsets which gave us
some of the history. Stonehenge is a Neolithic and Bronze Age
megalithic monument located near Amesbury in the English county
of Wiltshire, about 8 miles (13 km) northwest of Salisbury. It
is composed of earthworks surrounding a circular setting of
large standing stones and is one of the most famous prehistoric
sites in the world.
Archaeologists
think the standing stones were erected between 2500 |
Stonehenge |
BC and 2000 BC
although the surrounding circular earth bank and ditch, which
constitute the earliest phase of the monument, have been dated to
about 3100 BC. The larger stones
of the outer circle, called Sarsen stones, were brought form
Marlborough Downs, 30 km away, and the smaller inner stones, called
Bluestones, came from the mystical Preseli Mountains in Wales, 385
km away. When Kathryn came here 20 years ago, she could walk
amongst the stones. Now they are roped off. This is probably a
good thing because you will notice very few people in the photos
that I took. Most of our photos of famous places are full of those
blasted tourists. |
Our next stop
was the city of Salisbury. Salisbury, on the banks of
the River Avon, is best known for its proximity to Stonehenge
and for its glorious cathedral, which dates back to 1220 and has
the tallest spire (121 m, 404 feet) in all of England. We
spent some time just walking the streets which were filled with
Tudor inns and tearooms. We stopped for lunch at Stuby’s fish
and chip shop (see photo in slide show below). This narrow
restaurant was built in a lane between two existing buildings.
While we were eating, an elderly couple at the next table
commented that they noticed our “charming accents” and wondered
where we were from. |
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Salisbury
Cathedral |
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From
Salisbury we continued on to Bath. Bath is a unique
city; its hot springs, Roman Baths, splendid Abbey and Georgian
stone crescents have attracted visitors for centuries. Set in
rolling Somerset countryside, just over 100 miles west of
London, it is a beautiful and unforgettable place to visit. The
surrounding hills give Bath its steep streets and make its
buildings appear to climb the slopes. We bought tickets and did
the tour of the Roman Baths which were cool – not
temperature-wise but ‘cool’ cool. Adjacent to the baths, in the
Church Yard is Bath Abbey, with its imposing West Front. Dating
from the 16th century, the Abbey was constructed to replace the
ruinous Norman Cathedral. The Abbey
contains some particularly fine stained glass, and superb fan
vaulting.
Leading off Bath’s
main shopping streets are numerous side alleys |
Roman Baths:
that's Kathryn in the sleeveless blue top about to test the
waters |
(known locally as
passages) crammed with yet more shops and restaurants.
We found a grocery superstore and loaded up buns, fruit, cheese,
meats and vegetables – and ice – before heading out. |
We left Bath
and drove for about 2 hours to Cardiff, Wales. It was
late afternoon as we crossed the bridge over the Bristol Channel
and it started to rain. It continued raining until we pulled
into Cardiff. We really had no plan other than to see part of
Wales but we thought we would try Cardiff Castle. It
closed just as we got there. After a look around downtown
Cardiff, we drove back to Chippenham for a nice, non-restaurant
meal and a good night’s sleep. Two weeks after we got home, we
received a notice from the rental car company that we had been
caught speeding on photo radar in Wales and the fine was £27.
Maybe we shouldn’t have gone to Wales after all. |
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Ken outside
Cardiff Castle |
Click here for a slide show of Day
7 photos.
Week 2
|