and drew him a map.
Unfortunately, he did not realize where we were parked
in the one-way,
U-shaped cul-de-sac in front of the hotel, so he drew in an extra,
unnecessary turn. And now the adventure begins.
First a
geography lesson: Some 320 million years ago, the cores of
several volcanic vents in the area cooled and solidified to form
tough basalt volcanic plugs, then, during the last ice age, glaciers
eroded the area, exposing the plug as a rocky crag to the west, and
leaving a tail of material swept to the east. At the same time, the
glacier gouged out ground to each side, leaving the ravine of the
Grassmarket and Cowgate to the south, and the swampy valley of the
Nor Loch to the north. The resulting crag and tail landform now
forms the Castle Rock and the narrow steep sided ridge which the
Royal Mile follows. The ridge declines in height over a mile,
meeting general ground level at Holyrood. The city of Edinburgh is
divided into several districts, primarily Old Town and New Town.
Old Town is the home of the Royal Mile, which was one block
north of our hotel. The Royal Mile, also called High St. and
Canongate, is the city’s backbone and winds east-west from Edinburgh
Castle down the volcanic hill to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. All
the other streets tend to run up, down or around this ridge. Add to
this the fact that the same street can have many names. For
example, we came into Edinburgh on the A272 highway which merges
into Liberton Road and becomes Craigmillar Park. As you head toward
downtown Edinburgh, the name of the street changes to Minto, then
Clerk, then Nicholson before becoming South Bridge. If you cross
the bridge it becomes North Bridge.
Secondly, some
advice: Auto Europe suggests: 'With one of the highest levels
of car ownership in Europe, driving in Edinburgh can be a fraught
business.' The Edinburgh Guide says: 'Driving around congested
Edinburgh is increasingly more hassle than it is worth, so the
general advice to visitors is to walk, cycle or use public transport.'
Sadly, Kenny had not read either of these helpful hints beforehand
and thought he could easily find the parking garage. As I later
determined, I only had to head south downhill on Blair St., which
was the name of the one-way street in front of the hotel, even
though the hotel’s address was 6 Hunter Square. Then, turn left on Cowgate, go about 6 blocks and turn right and there is the parking
garage.
The journey:
However, because of the hotel clerk’s unnecessary extra turn on the
map, which was a tiny, grainy, tenth photocopy of a poor original, I
went down the hill and turned right. After driving several blocks
and turns to avoid road constructions, I determined I was not going
in the right direction and decided I should go back to the hotel and
start again. After turning around and heading back on Cowgate, I
arrived at Blair St. but could not turn left because it was one way
coming down the hill. No problem, being an experienced navigator, I
knew that the main road, South Bridge, ran parallel to Blair, so I
only had to continue a few blocks east, turn left, go a few blocks,
turn left again and I would be on South Bridge and then could find
the hotel. However, in all the excitement, I forgot that I had gone
downhill and was now actually driving underneath South Bridge Road.
After going a couple of blocks along Cowgate, I turned left and now
the fun began. This road ended after one block and I couldn’t turn
left because it was another one-way street. Now, did I mention that
it was raining and the middle of rush hour and Kathryn had put the
map in the back seat – not that it mattered because the fog and the
rain made it hard to read any signs and there was no sun to get a
directional bearing and the traffic was flowing very fast and horns
were honking and there was no place to pull over. Oh yah, all the
buildings in old town are 7 to 10 stories tall (more on that later)
so you couldn’t see anything and I was driving on the right-hand
side of the car and in the left-hand lane. All I knew was that I
didn’t want to travel too far in any one direction as that would
take me away from Old Town. So I kept making turns whenever I
could, going in circles until more one-way streets seemed to send me
back to places I thought I recognized. I had to keep moving because
the busy traffic forced me to. Finally, on my left was a church
with a tiny two-car parking spot in front. Cutting in front of
another fast moving vehicle, I screeched to a stop in front of the
Buccleuch Free Church. I had no idea where I was but at
least I wasn't moving. After a couple of deep breaths to calm down and
grabbing the map of Old Town Edinburgh, I tried to retrace my path.
Suddenly, in the bottom corner of the map, I noticed Buccleuch
Street, and it was only one block from Nicholson St. Luckily, I had
been paying attention when Kathryn noted that Nicholson St. had
become South Bridge on our way in to town. Not trusting my luck, I
got out of the car and walked one block east and there was
Nicholson. I jumped back into the car, got on to Nicholson St.,
which became South Bridge, which allowed me to turn into Hunter
Square and, voila, the hotel. It had now been 40 minutes since I
had dropped Kathryn off. I went to our room and you should have
seen the look of surprise on Kathryn’s face when I told her I still
hadn’t parked the car.
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