|
Day 30: Wednesday, October 4, 2006
Kusadasi, Turkey You
Absolutely Must See Ephesus

Currency: Turkish new lira
Language: Turkish (English, French and German also spoken |
This turned out to be the best day
of the cruise so far. Once a sleepy farming village,
Kusadasi was transformed by the Turkish tourism boom of the
1980s. Kusadasi, which means "bird island", is set in a superb
gulf in the Aegean region of Turkey and is known for its
|
_small.jpg) |
View of
Kusadasi port |
turquoise sparkling water of the
Sea, broad sandy beaches, bright sun and large marina with a
capacity for 600 boats. Kusadasi has retained a certain
earthiness to it and inexpensive meals and pensions can still be
found in town. Many shops do a brisk trade with passengers from
hundreds of cruise ships that dock for the day.
Our friends had booked a shore
excursion to Ephesus but Kathryn and I are not real big
fans of cruise ship shore excursions. Once we were on the
ship, we started to hear great things about Ephesus and decided
to try and make our own way there. There were all kinds of
guys outside the port gate offering taxi rides four anywhere
from 75 to 90€. Finally one fellow offered us the trip to
Ephesus for 40€. We were to find out later why it was so
much cheaper. We jumped in the cab and set out on the 18
km trip to |
ruins that we
had seen so far on our trip but nothing prepared us for this
incredible site. It would have been a serious error of
omission not to have come here. First a little history:
Ephesus, the most renowned of the
ancient towns founded in the Ionian region in Western Anatolia,
is located on the south of Izmir's Selcuk County. It is
considered as one of the most important centers not only in
Western Anatolian civilization but also in the history of word
civilization. The ruins of Ephesus take on a value and a special
significance among the innumerable sites of an archaeological
interest: this is due to its inestimable artistic patrimony, its
enormous heritage of history and culture, and the inexhaustible
beauty and charm of its archaeological site. The original site
of Ephesus was most likely established on the Aegean coast, on
the shores of that sea which today is located eight km away from
the archaeological excavations.
The foundation of Ephesus took place between the 16th and 11th
centuries B.C., and its founders were of Greek ancestry. Visits
of personalities such as Brutus, Cassius, and Cicero gave
testimony to the importance which Ephesus held in the Roman
world.
It was the Roman era in which the city grew to become an
important commercial center. It was also one of the first five
cities of the Roman Empire.
As a
strategic coastal gateway to the Eastern World, this Ionian
refuge grew to be the second largest city in the Roman Empire,
the site of a Christian shrine, and one of the seven wonders of
the ancient world.
During the Christian era Ephesus became a magnificent metropolis
of the ancient world such as Alexandria and Antioch. The city
was also one of the seven churches of Asia. John the Apostle, is
buried in the church named after him located near Ephesus.
Virgin Mary is also believed to have spent her life after the
Crucifixion near Ephesus
and
local Christians venerated a small house near Ephesus as Mary's.
Both of these events make Ephesus one of the most important
landmarks in the history of Christianity.
The decline of the city began with the invasion of Goths in 262
AD by which the town was burnt down. Ephesus was never to reach
its former splendor again.
In 1869, an Englishman named Wood discovered
the site of the Artemision. Excavations were carried out after
this in 1904 by another Englishman named Hogarth. In 1895 the
temple was first excavated by an Austrian team, and today
excavations are continued by the Austrians and the Turks. Only
about 2-4% of Ephesus has been excavated.
|
Our
taxi driver dropped us off the entrance to the ruins. He
sold us a book on Ephesus and snuck us to the head of the line.
He said he would meet us in the parking lot at the bottom of the
1.2 km walk. We then spent the next 2.5 hours in 30+
temperatures making our way through the ruins amongst hundreds
of tourists. Luckily it
was a gradual downhill walk but we drank lots and lots of water.
We took many photos and you can see them in the slide show
below. For more information on Ephesus, I recommend the
website http://www.ephesus.us/. |
_small.JPG) |
The Celsus
Library |
Below is a layout
of the Ephesus ruins. We entered at the bottom right of
the photo and made our way down to the large parking lot in the
upper left.

|
This was taken
from the book on Ephesus that we bought.
Click here for a
larger view. |
|
|
|
Our
cabbie was anxiously waiting for us in the parking lot. On
our way back to Kusadasi, he insisted we stop in at a leather
"factory". It was a lovely store full of beautiful leather
jackets. We tried on a few jackets. They also
brought Ken a beer. The original prices were in the 700 -
800€ range each but the price kept coming down. The
salesman was really slick but we kept resisting. As we way
trying to leave, our cabbie got involved. The owner of the
store was his "cousin" and he would talk to him - I think he got
a cut if we bought something. The jackets were really nice
but we had no room in our luggage and hadn't planned on buying
any jackets. Finally the cabbie asked me to name a price
so I said 400€ for the pair. The owner said we had a deal.
Then when we went to pay for it, our Visa card was rejected.
They tried phoning to Visa in Canada but we had no luck.
No problem, they said, we could pay in cash. But we didn't
have that much cash on us. No problem, the cabbie would
drive us the 5 km into the next town were we used a machine to
withdraw the cash. They would make the minor alterations
while we were gone. When we came back, the alterations
weren't quite finished so they brought Ken another beer - not
bad in a Muslim country. We finally got our leather jackets and
we both them love.
We also had to stop at a jewelry store but we simply walked in
looked at the prices and walked back out. He also tried to
get us to stop at a carpet factory |
_small.jpg)
_small.JPG) |
but
we said no and went back to Kusadasi.
We found a place that had Internet so we sent out another email
to everyone back home. WE also bought a phone card and
cleared up the problem with our Visa card. We had time
left so we tried to phone Kathryn's dad but there was no answer.
We tried Kathryn's sister, her friend Judy, my sister and our
godchildren Avery, Miller and Amy but no one was home.
Kathryn did not have her fill in Istanbul, so we went shopping
in Kusadasi's bazaar.
You can find a big variety of
leather clothes, gold jewelry and many souvenirs in the shops
which are located side by side.
If we hadn't already been to the Grand Bazaar, this would have
been impressive. Ken stayed with it for awhile but soon
left Kathryn to enjoy shopping by herself and went back to the
ship. |
_small.jpg) |
When
we were in Constanta a few days earlier, the Lunns and
MacDonalds had wandered into a Romanian wine shop. Dave
said he wanted to buy some local wine, so the shop owner picked
up a plastic 2L bottle and filled it from a tap. They
almost died laughing. That night at dinner, Dave Lunn had
a special treat for our Wine Steward (in red) and the
Cellar Master (in white), who had taught the wine-tasting
class earlier. He called them over and asked them to taste
his "special wine" He then reached down and pulled out the
plastic bottle that you can see on the table in the photo.
They were good sports and made |
"Tasting" the
Romanian wine |
a big show of
tasting his wine. We all had a taste and it was not very
good. Later some of the servers entertained us with some
tricks. After dinner we went to the Queen's lounge for a
nightcap to see a comedy magician by the name of Woody
Pittman perform.
We did not set sail until about 11:00 pm and we got to see
nearby Pigeon Island all lit up. Pigeon Island is
the symbol of Kusadasi. As the island was much-frequented place
of birds during the seasonal migrations, it was named as Bird
Island. In the times of Ottomans, the name of the island |
was
given to the town and the town was started to be called as
"Kusadasi" (Bird Island). Since then, the name of the island was
changed into "Pigeon Island". The island was used for military
purposes during the Ottoman Era and before, as the location of
the island was strategic for securing the shores or preventing
the attacks from the sea. The Byzantine castle standing on the
rocks, used against pirates, is known as "Pirate Castle". Pigeon
Island , unlike its name, is now connected to the land by a
causeway. |
 |
Pigeon Island
at sunset |
Click here for a slide show of Day 30 photos.
Day 31
|
|