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Day 44: Wednesday, October 18
Menton, France
Arrivederci Italy - Bonjour France;
Happy Birthday Ken
We had a complementary
breakfast at the hotel and set out for France. The weather was
a little overcast and cool in the morning but it cleared up later.
Our first stop, 30 km from Pisa, was the city of Lucca which was
recommended by our Frommer's guide.
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Lucca is a small walled town in central Tuscany. The
walls date back to the 15th century and they enclose a place
that can be wandered or pedaled with ease yet remains full
of secrets. One of Italy's finest mediaeval treasures, the centre is
relatively unspoiled and is sprinkled with palazzi, towers and almost
countless splendid churches. The surrounding hills produce some
excellent wines and arguably the finest olive oil anywhere, whilst
the beaches and nightlife are but a small hop away. A quiet
town, it has still not crossed the boundary to crass rip-offs and
over priced trinkets of other tourist towns around the world. Lucca is a walking and bicycling town. Unless you live within the
city walls you are not allowed to drive or park there. As the
photo from the Internet at left shows, the streets are
incredibly narrow. Kathryn was worried about leaving all
our luggage |
Streets of
Lucca taken from a tower |
in the car, so we
found a parking garage and each took turns wandering around the
old medieval town. Kathryn purchased some Tuscany olive
oil and balsamic vinegar in a local shop.
We then got on the A12 (and later
A10) freeway and drove the 300 km along the coastline of
northwestern Italy. This was an amazing trip because
almost the entire trip was made driving on bridges or through
tunnels. The terrain of the coastline consists of one huge
ridge after another running perpendicular to the shore with deep
valleys in between. We had to drive on tunnels through the
ridges and on bridges over the valleys. We spent very
little time on flat ground during the entire four-hour trip and
we were constantly turning our headlights on and off. The
tunnels ranged from 77 m to 2000 m (2 km) in length. The
bridges were 150 m to 250 m long and 50 to 80 m high (pretty
scary if you are afraid of heights). There were beautiful
little village down in the valleys under the bridges but there
was no place to pull over to take a photo. |
The
map at right is a Google satellite image of the coast near
Genova. If you click on it, you can see where the highways
disappear into tunnels. If you can see the road is almost
always a bridge. There were over 100 bridges and tunnels
on this trip. |
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Map showing
bridges and tunnels |
Entrance to
tunnel |
Tall Italian
bridge |
Just a little way over the French border, the pleasant Cote
d'Azur resort of Menton has been attracting tourists for
years. Menton (pop. 30,200), is located in the French
Riviera, not far from Nice and Cannes, and lies in a tiny
section of France uniquely bordered by both Italy and the
Principality of Monaco. Although the pretty town is
nowadays inside France, Menton once belonged to Genoa, is still
Italian to look at and is as warm in winter as Capri. The Cote
d'Azur resort is used to tourists, and has had a resident
English 'colony' since the 1890s. Among assorted European
nobility in Menton's beautiful hilltop cemetery lie the inventor
of Rugby football and Aubrey Beardsley, Oscar Wilde's friend and
illustrator. Above the posh yachts and fishing boats, Menton's
old town rises in a tangle of stepped lanes, pink/cream/ochre
houses and tall Italianate churches.
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When
Kathryn was planning our trip, Ken said he wanted to stop and
spend a few days on a warm beach somewhere to recharge our
batteries. We were
originally looking at San Remo, Italy when Kathryn heard about
Menton and the Hotel Napoleon from her bridge friend, Leoma.
She and her husband had stayed there for a week and they just
loved it, so we decided to book in for three days. As we
entered the city and reached the waterfront, we turned right
instead of left and drove to the western edge of this lovely
city. We then turned around and drove back to the eastern
side of the city and found our |
Kathryn on the
balcony of our hotel room |
Hotel Napoleon. We
had
originally booked a mountain view room to save money but, as
soon as we saw the hotel which was across the boulevard from the
beach, we decided to pay the extra 15€
per day and got a sea view room with a balcony. We
normally don't spend a lot of time in the room but this turned
out to be a good choice.
An online website for Menton states "With
over 300 cloudless days each year, Menton’s subtropical
micro-climate guarantees that tourists will enjoy afternoons
spent in the blue waters of the Mediterranean, basking on the
picture-perfect beaches, and weekend visits to the lush
mountains surrounding the town."
Unfortunately the next |
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The view
looking east from our balcony. The flat topped building is
a supermarket. |
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two
days were part of the other 65 days as our luck of beautiful
warm days finally ran out. We found out from the British
tourists staying in the hotel that the previous week had been
hot and sunny and we later heard that the week after we left was
also very warm. In spite of this, we loved our time in
Menton and would love to go back there again.
By this time we badly needed to do laundry. The front desk
said that there was a coin laundry near the Hotel de Ville (City
Hall) so we walked about a km to |
The view looking
west to downtown Menton |
the old city
center. We never did find the laundromat but the old town,
le Vieux Menton, has an active pedestrian area, with the
long Rue St Michel running the length of it, full of shops of
all sorts |
and terrace cafés. The real
heart of le Vieux Menton is the Medieval style buildings grouped
around the Eglise St Michel and the Chapel de Pénitents
Blancs at the top of the hill. Viewed from the sea front at
the east, this area has the appearance of a hilltop perched
village. The streets are narrow, with long step-streets and many
very colorful old buildings.
We found an Internet cafe on
our way back to the hotel and sent out an update to family and
friends. There was a supermarket (U Marche) across the
boulevard from the hotel. We went and brought fresh fruit,
produce, meat , cheese and buns and had a picnic style meal on
our balcony at 8:00 pm to celebrate Kenny's birthday.
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St. Michel
Church taken from the boardwalk along the bay |
Click here for a slide
show of Day 44 photos.
Day 45
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