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Day 50: Tuesday, October 24
Arromanches, France In
Search of the D-Day Beaches
It
was a cool morning (10°)
as we ate a big breakfast of coffee, croissants, baguettes and
fruit at our B and B. We set out on a 210 km trip to
Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue on the Normandy coast. We had
mistakenly read that this was the beginning of the D-Day beaches
but soon discovered that the D-Day beaches actually started
further south.
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We
followed the coastline and came to a sign indicating the German
gun batteries at St. Marcouf' We drove to have a
look and were surprised that it was 5 or 6 km inland. We
then drove back down to the coast to Utah Beach. We
walked the sand along the beach and had lunch at La Roosevelt
Restaurant which was also part museum and souvenir shop. A
little further down the coast we came to
one of the most poignant reminders
of the events of the summer of 1944, the Pointe du Hoc
headland which is still pockmarked with shell craters and dotted
with ruined bunkers. Here, Germans had placed bunkers and
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Ken standing on
Utah Beach |
artillery. The positions were
bombed, shelled and then attacked by 225 US Rangers, who scaled
the 35-metre rock wall, besieged the bunkers and finally took
them. By the time they were relieved, only 90 remained.
Pointe du Hoc now has a memorial and museum dedicated to the
battle. Many of the original fortifications have been left in
place. The site is speckled with an impressive number of bomb
craters. We took several photos here.
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Pointe du Hoc
photos. Double clock for larger view.
Hover mouse over photo for a caption. |
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We
continued down the coast to Omaha Beach where we once
again got out and walked on the beach. It took very little
imagination to picture the chaos as thousands of Americans came
ashore under heavy German fire. Ken really wanted to see
the American Normandy Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer but we just
missed the 5:00 pm closing time.
A little further down the coast we came to Longues-sur-Mer.
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Ken on Omaha
Beach |
Built in the first few months of
1944, the naval battery at Longues was equipped with four 150-mm
guns, housed in casemates, and a range-finding post embedded in
the cliff face. Thanks to the range of its guns, the battery
could fire on both the Omaha (American sector) and Gold (British
sector) beaches. Although it was heavily bombed prior to D-Day,
it was still capable of opening fire on the invasion fleet in
the morning of June 6th 1944. At daybreak, it engaged in a duel
with several Allied cruisers before being silenced in the
evening. The next day, it was captured by the British without a
fight. Longues Battery is the only one in the region to have
kept its guns as a memorial of the war, and because of its
excellent state of preservation, it is well worth a visit.
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Kathryn in
front of one of the huge gun casements at Longues |
It was getting late and we did not have a room booked, so we
decided to stop for the night in Arromanches, a pretty
seaside town with lovely walks and beautiful views.
Kathryn had been checking her guide books, and while I double
parked, she got us a second floor corner room
overlooking the sea in Hotel La Marine, located on Quai
du Canada - how could we not stay there? The town lies along the stretch of
coastline designated as Gold Beach during the D-Day landings,
one of the beaches used by British troops in the allied
invasion.
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Arromanches was selected as one of the sites for two Mulberry
Harbours built on the Normandy coast, the other one built
further West at Omaha Beach. The Mulberry harbours were
two prefabricated or artificial military harbours, which were
taken across the English Channel from Britain with the invading
army in sections and assembled off the coast of Normandy as part
of the D-Day invasion of France. However, a large storm on
June 19 destroyed the American harbour at Omaha, leaving only
the British harbour which came to be known as Port Winston
at Arromanches.
While the harbour at Omaha was destroyed
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Remains of
Mulberry Harbour on Gold Beach |
sooner than expected (due to it
not being securely anchored to the sea bed), Port Winston saw
heavy use for 8 months—despite being designed to last only 3
months. In the 100 days after D-Day, it was used to land over
2.5 million men, 500,000 vehicles, and 4 million tonnes of
supplies providing much needed reinforcements in France.
Sections of the Mulberry Harbour at Arromanches still remain
today with huge concrete blocks sitting on the sand, and more
can be seen further out at sea.
We had a lovely meal in a small
restaurant in this village of 500 called Au 6 Juin - this
restaurant offers a great menu with a terrace for dining ‘al
fresco’. It also doubles up as café serving snacks and a bar in
the evenings. We walked the half block back to our hotel and went to bed for a much
needed rest. |
Click here for a slide
show of Day 50 photos.
Day 51
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