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Day 53: Friday, October 27
Paris, France Crazy
Drivers in Paris; Wandering la Rive Gauche; Jenny from North
Battleford
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We had
another excellent, huge complementary breakfast in our hotel in
Plaisir and set out for Paris on the freeways. Ken was not
looking forward to driving in Paris and his worst fears were
soon realized. We had just exit the freeway at Porte
d'Orleans on Av. du General LeClerc when we came to a
stop light at a six-way intersection. We were first in
line at the lights to proceed straight through the intersection.
(Click on the Google satellite map at
left - we were about were the red arrow is pointing.)
Pretty soon first one taxi, then another and another and another
came flying by us on the right hand side, cut in front and
screeched to a halt at a 45°
angle, all four stacked in a row (much
like the other cars in the photo except they were on more of an
angle).
All we could do was wait |
Satellite view
of Av. du General LeClerc
intersection. |
until they
made their turns and then we could
continue on our way.
We
eventually arrived at Rue des Ecoles
which was the street our hotel was
on. We later found out why it was called the Street of
Schools - there were several schools, colleges and universities
on this street or just off it. It was too early to check
in so we stored our luggage at the hotel and Kathryn did a good
job of navigating us to the Gare de Lyon, the train
station were we dropped off our car. Ken was relieved that
he would not have to drive anymore on our holiday. We
decided we would walk the 2.5 km back to our hotel and see some
of Paris. |
Crazy Fact
Kathryn had booked the Hotel Moderne St. Germain back
in February. Some months later she was going through
an old Paris tourist book that she had used the last time
she was there in the 80's.
She
came across a receipt
stuck in the book for a stay at the Hotel St. Jacques.
The address sounded familiar and when she looked it up on
the Internet she found that the St. Jacques was right next
door to the St. Germain - what a crazy coincidence. |
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We
crossed over the Seine on the Charles de Gaulle Bridge and came
upon the Jardin des Plantes, the main botanical garden in
France. It covers 28 hectares (280,000 m²). The Muséum National
d'Histoire Naturelle is situated within the garden. In
addition to the gardens there is also an aquarium and a small
zoo, founded in 1795 by Bernardin de Saint-Pierre from animals
of the royal menagerie at Versailles. We cut through the
Gardens and then passed by the University of Pierre and Marie
Currie and the University Dennis Diderot before |
Kathryn in the
Jardin des Plantes |
arriving at Rue des Ecoles. We had read in our Frommer's
France guide about a restaurant called Breakfast in America.
It turned out it was only a block
and a half from our hotel. Its self-proclaimed mission
involves dispensing proper, rib-sticking American breakfasts and
diner food to a generation of Parisians who assume, prior to
their visits here, that coffee comes only as espresso and that
quantities, per meal, are rigidly limited. To their
delight, coffee cups here are "bottomless," and food items,
especially breakfast items, evoke the
good old days of America's bountiful agrarian |
past.
The venue replicates a 1950s-era railway car, replete with
scarlet-and-black Naugahyde banquettes, faux windows
with mirrored insets, and an
unabashedly Americanized staff. It was very crowded and we
had to grab a table outside. It turned out that our
waitress Jenny was a girl from North Battleford,
Saskatchewan who had come to Paris to visit a boyfriend and
had stayed three years. She was happy to know that because
we were Canadians, we wouldn't want a spoon with our muffins
which apparently the French do. When she brought our food,
Ken asked her "Ou est la cuillère (the spoon)?" She
started to apologize until she realized he was only kidding.
The food was good and we came back again. We went back to
the hotel and checked in.
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Ken eating at
Breakfast in America. Our waitress Jenny is serving just
by the door |
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We then walked three blocks north to the Seine (who
would have thought that a boy who used to go skinny-dipping in
Moose Jaw Creek would be walking along la Rive Gauche)
and Notre Dame de Paris. The Gothic cathedral
lies on the eastern half of an island ,called the Île de la
Cité, with its main entrance to the west. It is still used
as a Roman Catholic cathedral and is the seat of the Archbishop
of Paris. Notre Dame de Paris is widely considered one of the
finest examples of French Gothic architecture. We entered
the cathedral and took a few photos inside.
We then went a block west and a few blocks back south along side
the historic University of Paris, which
first appeared in the second half
of the 12th
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Notre Dame
de Paris |
century, but was in 1970
reorganized as 13 autonomous universities.
The university is often referred to as the Sorbonne after
the collegiate institution (Collège de Sorbonne) founded about
1257 by Robert de Sorbon, but the university as such is older
and was never completely centred on the Sorbonne. Of the 13
current successor universities, the first four have a presence
in Sorbonne, and three include Sorbonne in their names. The
University of Paris remains one of the most famous and
prestigious of universities in the world, |
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The Sorbonne |
having produced Nobel Prize
winners from its faculty and student body, as well as a number
of highly regarded intellectuals, political theorists,
scientists, physicians, theologians, and artists of the Western
tradition and canon.
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Then
it was a block back to the east and we came to the Panthéon
(meaning "Temple of all the Gods"), a building in the Latin
Quarter. It was originally built as a church dedicated to
St. Genevieve, but after many changes now combines liturgical
functions with its role as a famous burial place. It is an early
example of Neoclassicism, with a façade modeled on the Pantheon
in Rome, surmounted by a small dome. Located on the top of
Montagne Sainte-Geneviève, the Panthéon looks out over all of
Paris. Among those buried in its necropolis are Voltaire,
Rousseau, Marat, Victor Hugo, Émile Zola, Jean Moulin, Marie
Skłodowska-Curie, Louis Braille, Jean Jaurès and Soufflot, its
architect. |
Ken, tiny in
black with a white sweater tied to his neck, in front of the
Pantheon |
From here it was about three blocks down the hill to our hotel -
our hotel was obviously in a great location. We used the
Internet in the hotel to send out emails and catch up on what
was happening at home. We tried to book tickets to various
Parisian shows but did not have any luck. Our hotel clerk
suggested we should try it in person the next day. Ken was still suffering with flu
symptoms on and off all day so we walked a couple of blocks
toward the Seine to Place Maubert Market, a collection of
vegetable stalls, pastry shops and meat markets. We bought
sandwiches, fruit and Kathryn's absolute Parisian favourite,
lemon tarts, to take back to the hotel. Finding the
perfect lemon tart was her mission while we were here in Paris.
We had a very peaceful sleep on our first nice in Paris.
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Click here for a slide
show of Day 53 photos.
Day 54
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